And at sunset, the aroma of nostalgia. Noble without the claws and his dudes film, here is Positano. A past still alive of Russian dancers, Marquis communist soldiers
Vincenzo Caprile (1856-1936), “The square in Positano”
The scent of citrus is Positano. Noise is by speedboat, Riva Aquarama. “You must see the movie of Vittorio Caprioli, ‘Leoni in the sun’, was all so,” he says Alessandro Piperno, expert lover places. A Riva stands on his resounding “With the worst intentions,” not minimalist novel ten years ago, set a little here.
The film, however, is 1961, it is strange how all of those Caprioli; partly as a light comedy and then it becomes a melancholy devastating. The plot: a young lady of the north (Franca Valeri) is a journalist of tourism elegant that runs into a bad to live in tight shirts and tight pants and colorful. Here a group of local boys seek remedy for boredom and adulthood trying to conquer feminine, and possibly foreign yacht. “It ‘a beautiful film,” he says Piperno. “It was also written by Raffaele La Capria, the following year for the Witch ‘Mortally wounded’, and was mistaken for a movie seaside. While it is staging the summer of these debauched but compared to the films of the genre have forty years. ” And the phase difference of age makes the surreal tone-pathetic. “It is actually played on the great silences” Piperno continues; around a Philippe Leroy athletic jumping on the rocks and steals jewelry ladies American succhiandoglieli during hand-kissing perfect. Around, the young elders who study non-work.
Going down to the beach of Positano the sets are all there, as the few Aquarama now supplied to the grand hotel. Next to the two bronze lions that watch over the staircase, there is the Buca di Bacco hotel-bar-restaurant where much of the film was shot. Sasa Rispoli, now owner, the film was a bespectacled boy, whose Lions concupivano mother with the excuse to teach swimming. “I was eleven years old and crazy about this crew that was filming, I collected the coals of the arc lamps, the electrodes, the power lines, I felt like the child of ‘Cinema Paradiso'”, said today at the sheet. “There were wires everywhere, and terminals, and if there bumping hte shock. Vittorio Caprioli was staying here in the hotel with us, he was a friend of my father, and spent here the last weekend of his life. They met with a grand prix on television, on a Sunday, then he returned to Naples and died. ”
The father, in an initial stage, he was – well – itself, that is a hotelier annoyed umpteenth request to “mark” the costs of these insolvent out of time, and their phone calls. “Miss me give Naples eighteen-twenty-thirty” Caprioli says in the film, to be called “The gentleman Mimi,” that is then Philippe Leroy. Denial of the maid, intimate: “I’ll take all responsibility”, because wake in the morning, these lions in the sun, could be dangerous.
“It was a film that we made to gently tease the little dudes Positano, that were really so,” he says today La Capria. “Their only activity was thinking every day to find somewhere that would make them become popular.” “There was the brother of La Capria, Pelos, famous for its mated, had colored the Blue Grotto of Capri with yellow markers that were used in the Navy, and then he also painted the two lions here orange” Rispoli remembers junior. “Another time with a friend, disconnected the letterboxes and threw into the sea, and spread all the postcards to tourists in the waves. The police gave him several times the expulsion order. ”
The Lions, that is the true bronze lions, “there are always at least the nineteenth century,” he says Fausta Aquila Gaetani d’Aragona, who along with her sister Raimonda has defined the style of Positano majolica sgarrupate the right, and lemons bougainvillea, in his sublime terrace and sagging, as in a villa a little ‘Downton Abbey a bit’ principles of Salina, psychoanalyst and her husband, Massimo Amman, and many dogs.
Gaetani here are among the first to arrive, through matrilineal line Pattison (perhaps because in Positano children do not work, but the mothers are beaten very) basic English industrial railway, which in the early twentieth century have bought so many houses and a tower . And coupled Naples-England has created a strange hybrid of the wasp Positano and a caste society still working perfectly: each hotel belongs to a family of a strictly local, with a lot of respect for and ranks of nobility, antiquity of lineage, stars , in-room amenities and if below on the beach there is the Buca di Bacco of Rispoli, pop outpost, there especially on Le Sirenuse, compound maximum sciccheria; He is in front of the house Gaetani, in this golden mile of Positano.
The scenes that were filmed at Buca are shot here: in this ultimate luxury hotel, where the Anglo-Americans in costumes with small patterns read in sunglasses tortoiseshell the Financial Times by the pool cilestrina faded, and seems to be in a “Leopard” photographed by Slim Aarons. Here he was on vacation even Bepy Sonnino, Great Gatsby jew book Piperno, inspired by a grandfather who wanted to live at most, and then here. In the book the Sonnino take even the whole hotel. “We were a tribe. Twist. Bathrooms midnight. Hectoliters of alcohol. Poker until five in the morning. It was great. ” Bepy Sonnino, with choice of field, diagnosed with prostate cancer, will prefer to enjoy to the full rather than abandon the conquest, old lion in the sun. “His death is very similar to that of my grandfather in the reality,” said Piperno. “He was diagnosed with cancer that would have dealt a blow to his manhood, he chose to disregard and died at sixty-three years.”
Eros and elder burl, Bepy Sonnino hurtling into Jaguar from Rome-center to Sirenuse, who knows how much time he spent (we at Audi three hours dry). Now we are hurtling into Jaguar Alessandro Cecchi-Paone, journalist and television presenter, who recently president of San Vito-Positano, the local football team. He has a house in the town on high, and he also has a memory of grandparents vitalists, however, in 1100. “My grandfather, a widower, selected girlfriends bringing in Positano. From how they behaved here, you could see if they were the right ones, “he says now-Cecchi Paone. “In fact, with his second wife fell in love here.”
Cecchi-Paone has tried to bring some ‘of modernity in the feud anglonapoletano; trying a little Mykonos, with evenings gay friendly to Music on the Rocks, only disco of Positano, built into the rock, and the property of another dynasty, better known as the Russian Black (owners of local restaurants, Chez Black, Rada and the fact Disco). But without much success: without controversy, the feud ended: Non Expedit. So it was back to normal, and the disco is proceeding very Positano, and Peppe Russian, or rather Black Peppe, invests heavily in safety, and in front of us kindly chased by a group of tourists privé very liquid, and tipsy. We’re not at Cocoricò.
“I do not understand this music,” sighs however Sasa Rispoli on the terrace of Buca. He also has a glorious past as a DJ, disco here a time in the tavern. “They do not know how to interpret the mood of the track. And ‘the whole technique. Do not put the lenses, the lenses were fundamental. A Vanoni, a Mina, was necessary at some point, or else went crazy too. The slow must also encourage the talk, now we no longer speak, “he says in a tone expert. “At Buca went down barefoot, there were only friends, or strangers,” said Fausta Gaetani. “It was wonderful.”
“Here on the music booms,” says Carla instead Paravicini Sersale, dynasty of Sirenuse, higher still, watching the feuds, down, populated by modernity. “Do not they understand that it is an amphitheater?”. The hotel began as a former home of the Marquis Sersale, and Carla is doing to place tents, because some fundamental VIP seems to have been photographed here, and Positano there that violate the privacy, kings and queens and Hollywood actors because they are protected (the Queen of Belgium continues to come, last year Roman ladies enthusiastic discovered Richard Gere as near the spa designed by Gae Aulenti).
A Sersale, Paul, Marquis but the Communist Party, was also mayor for 40 years, in a place traditionally destrissimo (first monarchical, now the mayor Michele De Lucia, maximum fish wholesaler of coastline, is headed for a civil list linked to Brothers of Italy). Father of his country, transformed Positano. As told Franco Sersale Paolo Guzzanti of the Republic, exactly thirty years ago, there was a typhus epidemic because the water was very impure, and “General Clark will fottette fear. I went and my brother: general, told him, here or do the ‘aqueduct, or we’ll all die, as pests in the seventeenth century. Clark gives a little order to the aqueduct. And the country was enriched. Why Paul, my brother, had a little stacked the deck: he said that Positano was home to seven people. Instead we were only two thousand. Thanks to that trick from jail quite have five extra rations and those were paying workers: flour in exchange for work, and finally seized the pipe clean water: the English were happy to Positano emerged from the Middle Ages. ”
“Here the luck of the place was that it was chosen by General Clark, chief of Allied as a base camp,” he says Rispoli, and so many Americans returned home handed down by word of mouth the word Positano more effective than an advisor. The result then is that today the Italian is only a third language in Positano: first are the Neapolitan and English (spoken well with accents right, you say “sir” and “good afternoon” and not “coach” as the waiters wretches in Rome).
As John Steinbeck wrote in an article sull’Harper’s Bazaar in 1953, the Sirenuse are also the islets off Positano later renamed the Gauls, outpost of the lodging dancing Positano: formerly owned by Massine, maximum dancer of the Ballets Russes, student Daghilev, then bought by Rudolf Nureyev, the evening took a Riva and it did lead to Naples to do all his stuff back haggard, like Pasolini with Alfa. Today Li Galli belong to a businessman Sorrento, Giovanni Russo, who has purchased five billion pounds and now ask two hundred fifty million euro.
In “Lions in the sun”, Franca Valeri was finally brought to the Gauls by Philippe Leroy, but grimly went there to other trades female. Flavia De Luise, historical hairdresser Positano, while responding in perfect English to the customers “give my regards to your mother, dear,” she says today of when combing the Franca, who “wanted the hair absolutely straight, then down to do this tuft she still carries. ” And then a story that seems “Parigi o cara”, another film of the duo-Caprioli Valeri: “We went to my sister and I with a training visit to L’Oreal. But they were all of northern Italy, Milan, Domodossola, so we made fun of, treated us down. Then one day he stopped in front of the St. Honore Feaubourg a spider driven by the owner of a famous brand of champagne, which of course was always in Positano, and he, with this machine very luxurious, and the cache-col, we made a lot of parties and the others were very badly. ”
Russian dancers, Marquis Communists and American soldiers are the pieces of the recipe of Positano: it works fine, even better than Capri, the rival to twenty minutes by hydrofoil. Trade, well, everything else: nothing but the notorious global brand pieces hanging from balconies and shops and shops and tourists must pass through virtually (Positano course vu ‘cumprà is not covered). The pieces also have a pedigree emblazoned: “The Duchess has invented Laura Carafa d’Andria,” he says Gaetani. The duchess, however, “did not understand anything about money, and failed, because confounded the revenue with gains,” wrote Guzzanti. “When cashed, spending all the money for himself, and to the grievances of suppliers screamed: ‘immoral, but how dare they! I m’aggio bought beauty creams in Paris’. ” The duchess then failed, but was born the textile district of Positano from the balcony; firmly in the hands of local, because here in Positano, unlike Capri, has prevented the landing of the global brand. Or Gucci or Prada or Vuitton. “The Valley has tried to buy a shop down the streets” says Fausta always Gaetani. “After hearing the figure offered, they told him: learned, thanks a lot, this money we make them here.”
Compared to Capri, then, here “there dresses,” says Tonino Minniti, architect and artist. Nothing sweaters and cardigans, banned initials. “Positano is as it were immersed in a kind of spell. It ‘a place closed, incredibly feeble, tiring, it’s like a Greek island. And ‘bohemian “(Piperno). Still Steinbeck: “I can not see, here, a languid tourist rustling in fresh white dress. I challenge any lady to climb the stairs to Positano dressed like that, for a cocktail: arrive as a sheet of kitchen. He not the left but climb, wherever want to go. And this is enough to eliminate at least one type of tourists: those from the window. ”
Something has changed since then: “This citrus scent that you feel is fake, is sprayed with the speakers,” he says expert, showing the bottles on the window sills of the stores. But Positano continues to choose his clients. Get remains difficult: in the car, on the way from Naples, with curves and traffic jams may be made for slow arrival visions heartbreaking Gulf. And then ztl Nazi, and in addition to nostalgia, the core business of car parks, multi-storey, massive, expensive, overlooking a valley inside, a kind of framework or structure on which rests the Marxist superstructure aristocratic crib Positano. The machine, however, better forget it, and our A3 Cabrio that here at last we can show off with the roof open much admired, it will remain in a stand-prohibitive. Getting to the sea, is no longer simple. In the cockpit of his jet LNG unit, the commander Giuseppe De Gennaro maneuvering with difficulty, because “Positano has a pier, just a landing.” As the sea is big, the airport is closed because there is no dock. Ie the hydrofoil enters between bathers, goiters, inflatables, spears Sorrento. And some Riva. And in the twilight, between the smell of oil, along with that perhaps fake lemon, it is the aroma of nostalgia of Positano.